I read it while I was in Italy after I found by chance a "Guide to Ulysses" (written for Italian students) in a bookshop next to my hotel. Following the guide, I didn't start with the first chapter, but with a later one (third?), where the story really begins, then returned to the first couple of chapters later. It made a lot more sense that way. I still re-read the graveyard bits, Paddy Dignam's funeral.

Don