Lucky enough to have been there several times, and it is difficult not to find music. AsLewis rightly says walking up and down the Broadway (Downtown), is a good place to start. All the bars are pretty good if you don't like whats on in the Bar you're in, go next door, or next but one etc, Personally I like Roberts Western Swing Bar, but Tootsies, Legends, Bluegrass Inn all worth a look in. Opry is a real must so slick, but you have to take who is on the day you go sometimes they don't know who will be playing until the last minute. My favorite place of all though is the Station Inn, in the Gulch area. Its a real old world venue, but totally authentic and specializes in Bluegrass, but seen Country and Western Swing there. Out of town I can recommend the Nashville Palace and John A's in and around the Opry Mill complex. Have a great time you can'y fail to enjoy.