I'm amazed at how you can whip up really good grub when you're late home, you don't feel like cooking, the fire needs lighting, you've got ten tons of shopping to put away, you can't find room in the freezer, you need a wee, you're knackered...a bowl of pasta with some olive oil, sundried tomato paste and a grating of Parmesan will do it in an emergency. Last night I got home at eight o'clock in a very bad mood. It just happened that there were two chicken breasts in the fridge that we were supposed to have had the night before but it had gone to plan B instead. I made a pocket in each one and stuffed a dessert spoon of Boursin Into each. I wrapped each one in a couple of slices of out-of-date Parma ham and bunged them in the oven. At the same time I whacked on a pan of Jersey Royals. I dashed out into the gloaming and found a bit of purple sprouting, enough for two, lurking in the massive clumps I should have dug up weeks ago. Spuds took 20 minutes, chicken 15, broccoli five. On to warm plates with a knob of butter. I was amazed. Manna from heaven, and so simple. It helped that I just happened to have a nice bottle of Negroamaro from Puglia lying around. Amazing.