And what of parmigiano reggiano! I love Italian grub and I always keep a good stock of parmesan. I haven't got enough money to try all the different ones but I've settled for M&S parmesan, from the Canossa dairy which is 2000 feet above sea level. It's slightly softer than most parmesan and has a touch of sweetness. I love it!

What is utterly wrong is the dismal tub of ready-grated parmesan. This cheese should be grated fresh over whatever dish requires it. As a matter of fact, I wasn't happy with my old grater so I've just invested in a Microplane fine grater that is a pleasure to use. I know a chap in Bude who rarely used parmesan but who had owned the same tub of the grated abomination for ELEVEN YEARS!!! He told me that it still tasted fine. NO IT DIDN'T!!!

I was in Siracusa in Sicily in September and I found a shop that sold ricotta salata dead cheap in vacuum packs. Three of them now reside in me fridge. It's quite a hard cheese, eminently grateable, very salty and tangy, that is the only cheese to have with Pasta Alla Norma, the one with aubergines, tomatoes, garlic and basil (no onions for chrissake!). I'm currently looking for other ways to use it. It's very hard to find in the UK.

I use parmesan in omelettes, for making several varieties of pesto, in risottos and on several pasta dishes (though never with fish). The rinds always go into tomato sauces or ragus. But I also eat it secretly once Mrs Steve has gone to bed. A finger or two of parmesan just before bed gives you sweet dreams!