I travelled to Lourdes on about six occasions on the enormous Jumulances with the UK charity Across. We took ten unable, ten helpers, a doctor, two nurses, two priests, and I went as a physiotherapist. The buses had bunk beds, a fully equiped kitchen, toilets , medical facilities etc. It was a 27 hour trip and was a truly remarkable experience, we very quickly bonded as a family and really grew to love each other, We stayed at specially adapted chalets high above the town, where we had wonderful distant views of the snow covered Pyrenees. Yes, we did visit the shrine of St Bernadette, attend services in the huge underground basilica, go through the baths, and best of all the torchlight procession. Imagine up to 15,000 people with their sick folks walking about 3/4 mile carrying lit candles in holders and all singing the Lourdes hymn.
I am not a Roman catholic, but found the whole experience wonderful and inspiring. Certainly the people I was with didn't expect dramatic miracles, the miracle for them was that they gained strengh and inspiration to face their illnesses. Also the knowledge that that they were loved and cared for. We met people from all over the world and they shared experiences and hopes. I made very many friends and met wonderful never to be forgotten people there.
I belong to the Medical Association of Lourdes, and hear from them regularly.
The town of Lourdes is very touristy, but you don't have to get involved in it.