I haven't looked at the Frets.com info, so I'll tell you how I do it. I generally change one string at a time, but will do an all-off/all-on change now and then, to clean and oil the fingerboard (lemon oil furniture polish keeps the wood from drying out, especially on the upper frets you don't play on as much -- the lower frets get some natural lubrication/moisture from the fingers) and clean the top.

When I put on a new string, I don't use the "back underneath" system, since it puts a kink under the string as it goes around the post. I try for three to five "winds" around the post (more for the thin strings, fewer for the big 'uns) and use my right hand as a guage, in this manner. Thread the string through the post, and put the right hand under the string as it lies there, one end in the birdge hole (pinned) and the other loosely in the tuner post. Now I spread my fingers apart, lifting the string up from the top of the guitar, and then put my left thumb on the string at the first fret, to hold it. Switching hands so the right hand is now holding the string, I start winding the string with my left hand, keeping tension with the left, till it (the string) comes up to near tension and I can lift my right hand off and use it to pluck the string and check the tuning.

[Another reason to change one at a time is you can get back to near concert pitch easier, since you'll have the old strings adjacent, to which to tune.]

The result of this is several windings around the barrel or post of the tuner (I tend to spread my finger "guage" wider for the higher strings), and the kink where the string goes through the post separated by those windings from the tension of the string. If you use too few windings, the kink -- a weakness -- is susceptible to the tension. If you use too many windings, of course, the string gets pretty lumpy on the end of the guitar there, and you get other bad effects (strings "pile up" around the post, and slip off the pile at critical times in your playing.

Now, what do you do with the ends? Personally, I cut 'em off with cutter pliers about 1" above the headstock, then use the pliers to fold 'em back toward the headstock, in a double-back shape, so there's no sharp pointy thing right at eye level as I remove the guitar from my shoulder as the audience applauds. Too many close calls make me leery of leaving anything sticking out there. Also, those points cut the sh*t out of the inside of my gig bags, and those things are 'spensive enough, thank you.

So, that's how I do it.

Bob Clayton