Since drums for kids and/or geezers were mentioned, it might be worth noting that the trad "kid stuff" was once remnants from the last old innertube that blew on the family car – although dad might "cut a new skin" off 'ya when he found out you'd chopped up the one he was saving for the new carbureter gaskets he was planning to need. A distinct advantage in using something like innertube rubber for a drum that a kid (or geezer) was going to be fascinated with for a while was that it does produce a more "muffled" sound than you get from something a little less "stretchy." Getting a "drum sound" without getting a whole lot of drum sound can, in some usage, be a real advantage.

Although the "tubeless" tire has made them rather scarce, you should be able to buy auto/truck tubes at some places that sell tires; and might even be able to find a "salvaged" used one with a little searching. Think "Farm Trade" for places to look, since implement trailers and tractors are among the few places that tires aren't generally tubeless. (Bicycle tubes are much to small to be useful.) "Modern" tubes, though, are generally rather thick "synthetic" material and are "cured in the round" so it can be a hassle getting a piece cut out and "flattened" enough to be easily useful, and even a new one tends to be "dirty" to work with. There are many much more "friendly" materials – especially if you want to involve kids in the making.

For very small "tin can" drums, you can use a penny balloon or cut a piece from a surgical glove. Drape it over the top, put a couple of "rubber bands" around, and then pull it tight by drawing the "skin" under the bands. Even "kitchen film" (Saran?) will work well enough to keep a couple of kids busy for a while, although none of the "truly cheap" quickies will last too long (sometimes a good thing).

Especially for projects for kids, you should be able to find "oilcloth" at any fabric store – the stuff you might use for table covers. The "hard side" is available in a variety of colors and patterns, and the "fuzzy side" won't show. You might, rarely, find the "unbonded" kind, without the fuzzy backing; but it's not common in my area. This stuff is fairly cheap and easy to work with, but won't take a lot of tension (hence makes a relatively quiet drum) and can look pretty good if you can find suitable (unpatterned?) colors. You might find suitable stuff at a local "yard sale," but of course you don't get to pick the pattern.

The same fabric/yard-goods shop may also have reasonably heavy canvas that can be stretched a little more to make a very functional (but not too "authentic looking") drumhead. With canvas, you may want a "sizing" (think laundry starch) of some kind painted on after the "skin" is stretched in place. Art shop "gesso" makes a fairly good stiffener and makes the surface nicely paintable.

For a "native drum" that looks good and doesn't make a lot of noise, you should be able to find "shammy" (chamois) wiping rags at most auto parts/accessory stores. You need to watch out for the "synthetic" stuff, but should be able to find the real thing. Expect to pay $10 to $20 perhaps for a larger one. Much of the stuff on the shelf is "oiled" to make it feel soft, so you need to run it through with the laundry, maybe a couple of times, to get the "softeners" out before using it for your drum. Once it's "hardenable" (i.e. clean), if you "drape it" wet, at moderate tension, it should dry fairly stiff, so you don't need a lot of tension. The real chamois skins you find for sale are often rather irregular shapes, so you're unlikely to find one suitable for a drum more than about a foot in diameter, although you might get lucky with a little shopping.

In the US, the big "national chain" supplier for "real leather" is Tandy Leather. I don't know how "international" they are, but there should be similar suppliers almost anywhere. You find them advertising as "leather craft" places, and it may be hard to get past the kits and "hobby crowd" gizmos, but they do have large pieces available – at a price. The $6 (US) per square foot isn't too bad, but they like to sell "whole hides" (at 50 sq ft average.) If there's a local store, though, you're likely to find plentiful "partials" that could be suitable for a "major drum" project, and you might find something in the "bargain bin" at the Tandy (or similar) site. With some care, you can cut "lacings" from the same skin you use for the top, and there's a tool for it at most leather shops if you like "easy."

If you want sturdy materials for "real drums," as opposed to kid projects, but aren't concerned about "authentic," you might also browse the shops for upholstery materials of almost any kind. Most of these are meant to stand up to significant tension, and to be durable, although many of them are naturally (or treated to be) pretty waterproof, so you can't "shrink them on." Think scraps and remnants here.

John