Plexiglass panels cut and fitted tightly in window openings (indoors) where more heat goes out than warmth from sunlight comes in; especially in the wondows essential for preventing SAD. Over time, these are cheaper than a new plastic-fim window kit every year. I used tiny nails (brads) to hold them in tight like yo would use on the back of a picture frame to hold the mat and glass and picturte. They pull out easily in the spring, and I re-use the same hole the next year. A strip of stick-on rubber door insulation, on the side where they meet the window frame, helps make a good seal.

Home-made rollup shades to lower over the worst windows at night-- you know our house, LF, and these would be the giant LR and kitchen picture windows that are only a single layer of glass. The kitchen one is VERY effective-- it's a double bed quilt but it rolls up and down. Ask Hardi for details.

Under-door cracks-- stuffed with foam from old cushions, for rooms generally closed for the season.

Playroom-- we're planning plywood screw-on panels for the outside, lined with Celotex, painted white for the inside view.

Pine bedroom-- Same plywood panels as above, but from the inside. These panels get a strip of rubber all around the perimeter to ensure a good seal against wind.

Watch the cheap blankets going on sale-- they make great rollup shades or an additional layer under drapes, using clip-on hooks to both adjust length and put onto a cheap rod.

Drape across hallways that carry heat away from thermostat and people-- tension rod holding cheap blankets weighted at the bottom.

Speaking of thermostats, programmable ones are great so you can go as cool at night as possible but be a few degrees warmer for wakeup time. Also, protect stats from sunlight falsely telling them the room is too warm, and from drafts telling them it's too cold.

Electric blankets are WAY less efficient than electric mattress pads. Use them the hour before bedtime to pre-warm the bed and blankets, then shut them off for the night. Used that way they last forever.

Adjust food consumption to provide fuel and body heat at the most-needed times.

Area rugs on key cold-spots.

Portieres for drafty interior doors-- a curtain hung over the door opening (spit down the center) and tied back to allow passage, blocks a lot of draft through the frame of a loose door.

Hold a lit candle near each window, running it around the frame. Cheap construction often fails to caulk/insulate inside the gap between the window and the opening where the window is installed. The candle will show you where to caulk, exactly. Moretite is a removable caulk applied without a caulk gun, that does not damage wood surfaces. I have some-- come see, if you don't know this product.

Caulk or Moretite the gap between top and bottom sash of a window-- a lot of heat pours out there and a lot of cold, damp wind pours in. There are also stuffed tubes like those for blocking under-door drafts, that can be used on top of that window-sash gap.

Removeable plywood panels to block wind at entry doors-- make an airlock where you have an open porch right now. Even a partial block of the wind is a help-- we will be enclosing the dog porch on two sides this year, leaving the less windy side fully or partially open for them to come up on it to come into the house.

If you add one measure, all over the house, each year, you can have the house tighter and tighter the longer you live in it. (And you can do it more efficiently each year for the temporary stuff.) Each year, the question is, "Are you still cold when you sit here, or here, or here?"

At your house, I'd focus on that tension-rod thing for adding layers over the windows, so there's no concern about that lovely woodwork.

~S~