Since we're "citified" and the house isn't too old (mid 1940s), and since we need air conditioning in summer, there isn't a whole lot to do to get ready for winter. Insulation and air leaks are just as important when it's 105 F (41 C) outside and the reefer is running as when it's -20F (-29 C) and the furnace is on.

About the only winter prep I have to absolutely sure to get done is to make sure there isn't a stray garden hose left connected to an outside faucet. The faucets are "freeze proof" with the actual valve about a foot inside, but if water isn't allowed to drain out of them freely they will freeze.

(The camper, of course, is another matter, as the fresh water, grey water, and black water tanks have to thoroughly drained, antifreeze added in the waste tanks and sink traps, all the water lines blown out thoroughly, and provisions made for the battery. About a 3 day job.)

I'll second the suggestion made by a couple of people that the heating mattress pads are much superior to an electric blanket, particularly if you sleep with a "thrasher" like mine who rolls all the blankets into a knot at about hourly intervals. Aparently they're one of those "newfangled 19th century" things that people in Kansas don't know about yet, because it took me nearly 3 years of searching before I finally found a couple (at Sears) and they told me I bought the only two they'd stocked that year.

The ones I found do have a timer, so they shut themselves off after about an hour. They indicate a 180 W rating, but I think that must be to account for "warm up" current. I suspect, but haven't measured, that once warm they "maintain" at 100 W or less, so leaving them on wouldn't be a large drain on the system, althought the automatic shutoff is nice. Older ones (back to late 1950s) that some of the family had were intended to run continuously and my recollection is that one in particular was rated at only 80 W - remembered because it surprised me that it was enough to help as much as it did.

Most of the light fixtures where they'll fit have the "fluorescent replacement bulbs" installed. They use a bit less power, and last a little longer than the incandescent ones, although the "long life" claims made for them seem overblown. In a couple of workspace areas that are infrequently used, I've found that just putting a moderately sized incandescent bulb back in the socket provides sufficient "spot heat" to avoid the necessity of dragging an electric heater out. It's not enough to warm a really cold nook, but may be sufficient for a cranny where there's just a bit of a chill. It seems, in my house, that it's also much more likely that the lights will get turned off when the work is done than that the space heater will get shut off.

For those who only want a bit of heat in a fairly tight space, I'll note that many of the farmers in the area keep the "pump house" from freezing with a 100W light bulb or two. If there's a window in the space you're heating, you can tell from a distance if the light bulb burned out, where you'd have to walk out and poke your head in to tell if another kind of "heater" was still working. Use two bulbs for safety margin, since it's unlikely they'll both burn out at the same time.

Especially with lamps used for heat (since you might use larger capacity bulbs) those with pets should remember to NEVER leave any "tippable" heat/light device turned on when you're out. Any such device has the potential to start a fire, and "the cat did it" doesn't carry a whole lot of weight with a claims adjuster who's reluctant to pay off. If you must leave a "portable" heat source, make sure it's a "certified safe" device with a working tip-switch, and that it's located so your babes can't shove a pillow in front of it.

John