Ontario wine is darned good, too. Ontario used to be noted for porch-climber swill that an ethical cook wouldn't even put into the gravy, but during the 1970s the province was invaded by a bunch of Middle European winemakers who transformed the industry.

Inniskillin, the first Ontario producer of drinkable wine, began making "late harvest" wines (Spaetlese) and icewine (Eiswein) in the mid-1980s, and now we have a real "wine region" down there in the Niagara peninsula and a whole whack of seriously good producers. British Columbia also turns out truly excellent stuff.

Now you can stick entirely to Canadian wines and drink far too well from one end of the year to the other.