The little hell reserved for tankards is based on the fact they're seen in no other context but folk. The perfect synecdoche for everything pretend about the form but backed up by olympic level pedantry. Preserving something abandoned for perfectly good reasons, reinvented with a new backstory, and placed central to the hearty, hail fellow nonsense that's attached itself to perfectly good music to ensure it never reaches the ears of those with an ounce of irony.