Now that's off my chest, a recipe.

Being almost exactly on the watershed of the Great Dividing Range I'm a good three hour drive from the great fish in the Fisherman's Coop at Coffs Harbour, but I use this one on what is sold, in the local supermarkets, as "smoked cod". The fish is boneless, firm, slightly oily, tinged yellow and has a solid flavour.

Dice an onion and a clove of garlic and soften them in olive oil in a decent pot (~40cm diameter); add a tablespoon or so of curry (home-made or commercial paste) towards the end of the softening.

Take a third of a Queensland Blue pumpkin (OK, I know US residents call our pumpkins "squash" and the Brits regard them as cattlefood but you could use a decent - 40cm long x 10cm diam - Butternut instead) and, after peeling, chop it into pieces (~ inch and a half cubed?) that could be cooked but still firm after 20 minutes' simmering. Chuck the pumpkin pieces into the pot with the onions, add a tin of coconut creme and make up the volume to just cover the pumpkin by adding water. A thumb of ginger finely shredded doesn't go amiss. Simmer for 10 minutes.

Chop the fish (about 5 cutlets, each ~20 x 8cm) into short slices and add them to the mix; simmer another 10 minutes.

Makes enough for half a dozen large bowls and is great after a day out in the cold. You may already have a name for it but my daughters just call it "Pumpkin and fish".

Cheers, Rowan