I got the wanderlust a few years ago and took the Julia Belle Swain, bingo cruise, I wasn't ahold of the tiller, and didn't see a barge with a ratchet-bar, it's all hydraulic now. I did spend a couple hours in the pilot house. They were that tourist friendly. Gives you a great feel and appreciation of the river, and how that part of our history might have been. On the other hand, bucolic it ain't. They ought to ban jet-ski's from operating in the same hemisphere as a sternwheeler. Right now I'm listening to Billy Bragg, Mermaid Avenue. The jury is still out, but to paraphrase the blues guys, they started out on billy bragg,(rock and roll) and then moved on to the harder stuff.