Yeah, you mostly lean rather than turning the handlebars to turn, though there is a small turning action. If you fish around YouTube, there's a fascinating video by someone who got a mechanic to adjust the handlebars so they'd turn the opposite way. It took him at least a day, if memory serves, to be able to cycle like that. Then he had to relearn the normal way of cycling. What I wonder is, if he kept alternating them, would his mind automatically separate the two skills and use them at need, the way it does when you speak a few different languages.