The best pizzas we ever had were in a little pizzeria in Napoli, across the main road from the amazing archeological museum. Watch your pockets in Naples! There was a thunderstorm raging of tropical proportions so we took refuge. Mrs Steve had the biggest and most beautiful Margherita I've ever experienced and I had a pizza fritta the size of three Cornish pasties. Sublime and dirt cheap, Naples to a tee. We strolled down the road from there to the Duomo, just to get out of the rain, and were horrified to see an urn in the crypt which had San Gennaro's bones sticking out of it. He'd been murdered in the fourth century, apparently, martyred even, at the Solfatara crater at Pozzuoli. This year in Rome we found a restaurant that specialised in pinza pizza, made with a special dough that had been allowed to rise before topping. Totally gorgeous. I haven't bought a shop pizza here ever since, not even a Sloppy Giuseppe! I want to buy an outdoor pizza oven but Mrs Steve won't let me. She'll wake up one morning, look out of the window, and...