Last night we had a food emergency. I was going to barbecue some rather magnificent cod loins, skin on, but I'd misjudged the amount of time needed for it to thaw. Normally, that wouldn't matter, but I found that pinboning half-frozen cod is impossible without wrecking the fish. I therefore abandoned the fish, returning it to the freezer (discuss...), and we had cheese instead. But what cheese. Aside from the small lump of Mrs Kirkham's Lancashire that we had lying around, we tried a French one that we'd never tried before, namely blue d'Affinois. What a magnificent cheese. With those two to hand, we were in cheese heaven. The d'Affinois is a soft blue, double-cream cheese. You don't need much as it's very rich, but, begod, it's a beauty....