One that has passed into family history was taking four-year old Fiona around Koln Cathedral.The place is full of catafalques of departed clergy,it is also full of incense ( and No, I didn't say, " 'ere mate, your handbags on fire!"). So we're touring round and I'm translating the inscriptions and trying to be educational and Fiona eventually pipes up with " Mum, you know that strange smell? Is it all the dead bishops?"