Well we went to a pizzeria in Napoli, four of us, and each had a huge pizza, total cost for us all about €15. We were the only non-locals in there, always a good sign in Italy. We sat right next to the wood-fired pizza oven, just as well as we'd all just been soaked to the skin by a sudden tropical deluge (By the way, if you're in Naples and it starts to rain, 10,000 sellers of cheap umbrellas suddenly appear on the streets as if from nowhere). I asked for mine to be a pizza fritta, a deep-fried pizza in other words. When it arrived it resembled a Cornish pasty but at least three times as big as any pasty you've ever seen. Your man looked me in the eye with a look that was clearly nothing less than a challenge. The trencherman in me rose to the challenge and I ate the lot, around 2000 calories I should think. I could hardly move for the rest of the afternoon, but we did make it the couple of hundred yards to the Duomo, where we saw the bones of San Gennaro, the patron saint of Napoli who was beheaded in the Solfatara crater in the fourth century, in a large urn in the crypt. Catholics are the experts in presenting us with such unexpected horrors. Earlier, we'd spent the morning in the amazing archaeological museum. That was a shudderingly fantastic day!