Maureen, don't mess around - time is of the essence. You must head straight for Hughes' bar in Chancery Place (right behind the Four Courts) or the Cobblestones in Smithfield Market.

Give Temple Bar a wide beth until you've got more time to spare and can make your own judgments. Several bars in this area are little better than tourist traps. They hire in musicians to create the right atmosphere, but there is nothing homespun or spontaneous about the entertainment on offer.