Some (partial) answers to some of the earlier questions in this thread.

    Early serial number DR-7's. My DR-7 bought in March, 1970, has the serial number 6860, so a DR-7 with the serial number 6806 should be an equally early one. Two things to look for in a very early model: a "zeroth" fret right in front of the nut and a printed label with no place set aside for model and serial numbers, so they are just ink-stamped on it whereever there's room.

    S. McBay, what is your DR-7 serial number? Numbers up to the low 10,000's are probably before 1974. Sigma serial numbers were neither consistent or continuous, though. I have a 1974 DR12-7 with a serial number 74xxxxxxxxx, eleven digits, and had a 1980 one with a 29,xxx serial number!

    Sashi4, the CB-5 is a classical guitar is made of Bubinga wood. I don't know what the AC-10 stands for, but the two CB-5's I've seen (on eBay) were also stamped AC-10, maybe a manufacturer code. They're from the early 1970's. Sigma never put the logo on the front of the headstock of the classicals.

    Price of Anniversary Model: In varying condition, I have seen them (on eBay) go for $150-$200 with dings and scratches and other detracting features and up to $300-ish if minty. I actually paid $375 for a dead mint one with the original Martin factory case they came with if you bought one from a Martin dealer, but then I'm a Sigma nut, as is plainly evident.

    An old beatup DM-5 from the 1970's is just about the best sounding guitar for the dollar you can get: solid mahogany and solid spruce face, yet they rarely bring more than $150 on eBay. Invest in a set of ebony bridge pins and a good hard saddle (brass or bone) and you'll have sound that would be hard to match at four times that cost in a new guitar.

    Guest! Re-finishing an older guitar (Japan-made DR-28H) tends to re-set the clock on any collector value it may have now or in the future unless there's really horrible damage. It's also hard to do well on a nitro high-gloss finish unless you have a lot of experience with the task. A lot of things can be buffed out of a nitro finish, though. Check with a luthier.


Sterling K. Webb