Roast chicken is one of our favourite meals. Himself gets the legs; I make do with what's left over.

I agree with Steve; less than 2 kg is frankly not worth the trouble, and the somewhat pricier free-range bird is a good buy. In these very agricultural parts (Perth County in southwestern Ontario), "pastured" chickens are often sold at the farm gate, but they're frozen unless you know the farmer and arrange something special.

We have been here long enough now to have found a farmer who raises "heritage" breeds, pasture-fed. Decoded, that's old-fashioned-looking chickens who spend their days running around outside; when you drive into and out of the barn yard, you have to watch your bumpers for feathery movement.

I roast the bird for 20 to 25 minutes per pound, starting at 350F and breast down. Turn it over onto its back after the first half hour, and turn the heat up to 400F for the last 20 minutes to brown the breast. Salt and pepper all over outside and in. Instead of stuffing, I like to put a large lemon in the cavity -- pierced all over with a sharp little skewer -- to add both moisture and a little zing of flavour to the breast meat.

The flat-pan dish of chicken parts with potatoes and garlic is a great one; I like to put sliced shallots in there, too, and wedges of lemon. It's nice for company, not least because you have two of the three main elements of the main course in one container that you can bring straight to the table. Make a salad, crack a bottle of wine, and Bob's your regaled uncle.