Harpmaker, you just need to know where to go. Fuscoes in Baxtergate (think it actually has another name, bue everyone calls it Fuscoe's.) Anyway it's the one at the back of Boyes. My favourite is East Side Fisheries down past Middle Earth. First In Last Out chippie is good. Magpie is great to eat in, if you can get in, and Trenchers is good (ditto). But avoid the places down on Pier Avenue or the Battery - of course they're just out for your money, this is a tourist town. Duke of York has good food of all sorts, but expect to wait. the Indian in the station has a good rep. Pizza house opposite the co-op has good stuff, & there's a new Chinese somewhere. Then there's Shepherd's Purse, the new place opposite the bus station (forgotten its name!) - I could go on but...