Here in Sweden soon most (at least many) places where you eat and all other public places are smoke-free. As for pubs and such places I think people may still smoke there but there may be smokefree corners, I don't know. As I never travel I don't know about other European countries but I've heard that there are countries where people may smoke even in buses! It's just horrible! I wonder if Italy isn't one of the worst countries? I hope someone else can tell you more as you don't seem to concider moving to Sweden! But why not? ;-)
Berit