Charley, I did not pick up his book and I keep wondering why not. It's just as well. Once I had my big red duffle packed with all the snorkel gear and all it was 4 kilos over the allowable weight and I haad to repack it to rearrange the load. I had to do this while standing at the ticket counter at 11:00 PM with a long line of irritable and tired travelers standing behind me. Not a favorite part of the trip but almost the only black mark on the whole experience. The Peter Lik book would be welcome. You might want to forget about the snowball. I can get my own ½ cup of undrinkable water from the kitchen tap.

I'm glad to know the Aussies think they can convince me that their country gets hot and muggy. All I experienced was cold and rainy. *Grin*

Speaking of undrinkable water, I happened to mention drinking water from the tap the other day and two of the lunch table people were incredulous that we can get drinking water from the tap back home in the States. I thought that odd but I mentioned it to the women at the counter in Tuan's (a restaurant where I buy take out food sometimes) and they couldn't believe it either.

I saw a terribly sad sight the other day. First it was flashing red lights followed by a hearse and then two cars, only two cars. I would hope that when I die I have a bit more of a funeral escort than only the people it would take to fit into two sedans.

A friend and I went up to see the Spanish Steps on Friday. They are hard to reach because the road passes through the high security are around the ammo pier. Consequently the road is usually closed. However, the pier is being repaired this month so we can get up there. We drove out a former two lane road that has been narrowed by the creeping grass growing up from both sides. I had a general idea where the steps were. We followed the road all the way out to Orote Point where we found an antenna installation and some navigation markers for shipping. At the edge of the cliff we could look down on the beaches that surround the Spanish Steps but we were definitely in the wrong place. However, the view was breathtaking. We were perhaps two hundred feet up overlooking the entrance to Apra Harbor. It was a sunny day and the water was deep blue farther out but a lovely tropical green in close. And directly below us was a shallow bay with crystal clear water. Every detail of the ocean floor stood out in sharp relief, all tinged that same shade of lovely green, dark hummocks of coral and paler green sandy areas.

We went back along the way we came and found, in a clearing, the entrance to the trail down to the Spanish Steps. The steps were supposedly built by the Spanish (or more likely their Chamorro slaves) to provide water to the forts on top of the cliffs. Apparently there is a well at the bottom of the cliff line.

We walked into the woods a short way and found the entrance to the trail down the cliffs. We stood there, dismayed at what we saw. It was little more than a hole in the brush running straight down the cliff. Someone have run a 2" rope down the trail for people to hold on to for the descent and ascent. The cliff face was rough enough that there were plenty of footholds. It really would not be a difficult climb for someone with two hands free and able to take their time. And perhaps in better shape that we are. But we decided not to chance it at that time. I had my camera in my hands and didn't want to risk it dangling from my neck and my friend was totally daunted by the prospect of the climb.

We drove back, headed for Gab Gab but took a detour to explore the location of one of the old Spanish forts. The trail was well cleared for a ways but then devolved into a mere straggle of open space in thick brush, We did well along this until I took a photo of a particularly nice spider web. When my friend heard the word spider she headed back for the car and nothing I could say would turn her around.

So we went down to the beach an wetted our feet in the salt water and sand and talked and looked at the harbor.

I guess I'll have to go back to explore those areas without her.