I can't eat dairy either, so when I ask for extra quacamole, it's to replace the sour cream. The best I've had in a restaurant so far is what they make at a great little Mexican restaurant near here. On the menu, they have what they call a "guacamole cart". One of the staff (all of whom seem to come from south of the border) comes out with a tray on legs, with a gnarly looking mortar and pestle that look like they are made from volcanic rock. There are three big avocados on the tray, and five bowls containing chopped onion, chopped tomatoes, chopped cilantro, lime wedges (for squeezing), and salt, plus a pepper grinder.

The waiter or waitress cuts open the avocado, scoops it into the mortar, and mashes it up while you watch. Then he or she asks you which of the other items you want in your guacamole. I ask for everything but the black pepper. As I said, it's the best I've ever had in a restaurant.