Thanks, guys.
Sorry to hear the Green Kettle's no longer an option. I like the name. I've had several folks recommend Sandy Bell's and The Royal Oak. I enjoy instrumental stuff, but what I REALLY love is singing (listening, not doing!). I'm not worried about places looking like a dive... ;-) You should see some of the places in Texas where I go to hear good music.
Edinburgh, here I come! (just 11 more days!)
Mary Anne