michaelr - Driving in Italy in great cities reminded me of the absolute chaos som 30 years ago; the worst it was in Naples. Wherever you want to go, do it firm with abundant use of your claxon, but stop short before touching another vehicle. (It seems to be the best way to rely on strong nerves; nobody seemed to consider any traffic regulations. ) But I didn't witness any accidents in town.
Important when driving on narrow mountain roads: Use always your claxon before a curve; this is to notify any driver coming the other way to slow down and use the right side. Do so if you hear a claxon, too. If the opposite horn sounds like a ship's siren, a heavy truck is coming - or an impostor in a Fiat 500.

McGrath - try your automobile club. I got mine there, and another one from the surplus of my local fire department. The best I own I got from a friend who worked at the London Underground. If you have to save your ass by a fast jump and get hooked it rips off easily.