But IS Shanghaiceltic right, Foulestroupe? Surely the condensation occurs when warm air his a cold surface, is thereby cooled, and dumps its moisture content. Plastic whistles, as poor heat conductors, will not often fall to the same temperature extreme as tin, and therefore attract less condensation. Look around a steamed up bathroom and it is fairly obvious that some surfaces attract more condensation than others, even thought ambient room temperatures is the same for all of them. Thus warm surfaces, such as heated radiators, will not attract condensation, whereas window glass, losing temperature to external atmosphere, will.

A method more effective than Radriano's for clearing moisture is to cover all the holes (including the end-hole, using right-hand little finger), offer the instrument to the mouth piccolo-style, and then blow through the sound hole. This expels moisture through the only remaining exit, the mouthpiece, which should accordingly be pointed in a suitable direction.

This is also possible on low whistles, but only by blocking the end hole on the knee or other convenient surface. A degree of contortion is required as the mouth must now be offered to the sound-hole, rather than vice-versa. Where the mouthpiece end of a whistle can be detached (to allow tuning rather than for ease of transport, Liz) it is even more effective, and much easier, to blow through the reverse end of it, blowpipe-style, with the sound-hole covered. Again, as with a blowpipe, this method allows fairly reliable targeting.