The Mudcat Café TM
Thread #79264   Message #1435419
Posted By: JohnInKansas
15-Mar-05 - 01:42 PM
Thread Name: BS: What do you call those blue trousers?
Subject: RE: BS: What do you call those blue trousers?
The history of "denims," the name originally given to "those blue pants," is pretty well documented as being the invention of Levi Strauss during the 1860s California gold rush era.

It's not too clear whether Levi got to California looking for gold, or whether he actually went with the intention of being a "commercial supplier," but the essential features of the trousers he made and sold were that they were made from the "French cloth," hence the "denims" name, that they were stitched together with heavy "sailmakers" thread, and key stress points were reinforced with metal rivets. Levi also probably used a "French seam" in the original products as well, with the edges "turned together" so that all the stitches went through four layers of cloth instead of the simpler "just two."

The characteristic "metal buttons," with an integral shank to make them work better with the heavy cloth, appeared very early, but I haven't found when. They may have been in Levi's earliest products, or not.

Although the Strauss company history cites their exceptional "durability and toughness" that probably isn't really what made them popular. The common competing products were often made from sailcloth that was principally hemp fabric and could give you rope burns on your b... when you moved around. The real Strauss "edge" was that you could get a little comfort with durability very similar to the sailcloth.

The rivets on the pockets provided a "marker" still noted by people who collect old furniture when dating stuff. Especially for old schoolhouse desks and such, absence of "rivet scratches" is a pretty sure indication that it's very recent. The "standard grade" bluejeans from Sears and Mongomery Ward in my area didn't lose the rivets until early in the 1950s.

The bib front versions were called "overalls" or commonly just "bibs." They were a common "alternative style" worn on the farm mainly during threshing and other "hay handling" since the straps over the shoulders allowed you to "wear them loose" and you could shake the chaff out before it got too deeply embedded. In the late 1940s and into the early 50s, "bibs" made from a cotton-twill ticking cloth, typically white/grey stripes, were a little more popular in local farm country than the traditional blue denim. The twill was a little lighter weight cloth, and had slightly more "stretch." You could get a matching cap from the same material at the local Co-op.

The "coveralls" term, in my area, was reserved for the "full dress" outfit with long sleeves, long pants, etc all in one piece. This type was almost never seen in "farm country" but remains popular with auto mechanics where the key requirement is to cover anything that might scratch the customer's paint job. Surprisingly perhaps, coveralls are almost never seen on aircraft assembly lines, but are common on flight lines and in "delivery shops." Quite a few "in-home" services such as plumbers etc. use them as a uniform, probably as much for the consistent appearance as for functionality.

I can't comment much on newer terms, since I'm still wearing bluejeans that I bought in the 1960s. (I checked. No rivets, or I might suspect some of being older.)

John