Dave, I agree in all but one point. Indeed, foul language is "trendy" now - witness the appearance of the FUKC label and the FAQ-U TV programme. Or the language used in some of those pseudo-trendy programmes on Channel Four.

Where I disagree is that you're cutting Mr Ramsay some slack, as if his environment is forcing him to behave in such a manner. Sorry - I think THAT is the real Gordon Ramsay that we see, free of basic decency and free of inhibitions.

Others in his profession and of similar stature not only behave in a more civil manner, but also try to give back something from what fortune has bestowed upon them - Jamie Oliver is one such example, and there are plenty of others.

So, no excuses for GR. And no custom from me either. And the same holds for some of my colleagues, who regularly have business dinners at establishments such as his.