As indicated by several people, it can be hard to tell if the heater has burned out or if an exhaust vent is blocked. Most US installations for electric clothes dryers us a "flexible duct" connection between the dryer and the wall that can be easily disconnected. The dryer can then be run briefly, discharging into the room, to see if the outlet air warms up. Cleaning the "thru the wall" ductwork may be as simple as ramming a broom handle through if it's a straight-through, but if there are bends inside the wall it can require more sophisticated methods and can be difficult and time consuming. A kinked/collapsed flex duct is fairly common as well. A new duct, with clamps, shouldn't be more than about $10 (US) if needed.
Also a possibility, although probably fairly unlikely, is that your breaker has tripped one side of the 220 volt circuit. The motor often runs off 110 V, using only one side of the circuit; but the heater is commonly 220 V.
If you can identify an appropriate replacement part, most US electric dryers I've seen permit very simple replacement of the heating element. There's often a "raised shroud" on the back, and removing a half-dozen sheetmetal screws gets you to it. The last one I replaced was a bit under $40 (US) for the part, new, but that was a while back. With a manufacturer's name, model number, and serial number, any decent appliance repair shop should be able to find a replacement part for you. The heating element is a common replacement, and a good service person can probably find a "generic" part even for something very old and no longer manufactured.
If you should decide to poke around inside, UNPLUG THE DRYER BEFORE REMOVING ANY FASTENERS. Turning it "Off" does NOT make it safe to open anything up.