I am disturbed by this whole story. I find it impossible to understand that anyone could simply leave another person to die, no matter that it be under difficult conditions. They were not under enemy fire.
It is true that people die on mountains, even the most experienced climbers, but it is usually due to unexpected changes in the weather making conditions nasty.
Everest is a treacherous mountain (I am not a climber, but have known climber Alan Hinkes for a number of years - a while since I last crossed paths with him), but the actual climb takes place in a few hours - it is getting acclimatised to the altitude which takes weeks and being fit enough to climb in the low oxygen pressure, not the final ascent.
I cannot understand why the parties could not return the troubled climber to a safer altitude and make their attempt the following day.
Quack!
Geoff.