i'm the cook in the family and i'm always looking for an excuse to be indulgent. today has been our fourth wedding anniversary. so, to celebrate: first course, steamed artichokes. then, grilled duck breasts, served with a light madiera sauce -- actually, just a reduction of chicken stock fortified with madiera, thyme and shallots -- sauteed chanterelles, baked butternut squash, and a green salad (romaine leaves). wine was a 1994 rioja (marqués de arienzo gran riserva). ms. c. was most pleased. in all due immodesty, i wasn't disappointed, either.