Hi Bobert
After the spraying wrap the pipe in plastic, like saranwrap or some other self sticking wrap like "shrink wrap" then duct tape. The plastic wrap will wrap easier than tape, won't put stress on the pipe insulation as you wrap it so that the fibers won't be disturbed & will stay encapsulated as you further wrap with tape.

Another suggestion would be to use an ice & water shield rubber membrane or another butal self adhering rubber tape. The problem with butal tapes would be from sunlight exposure, which the UV rays eventually cause the then to breakdown.

For encapsulation & "some" removals you do not need to be liscensed. But for all removals you do need to submit to the building dept an "Asbestos Plan". The dept has so many days to review it & either deny or except it. The plan includes an inspection & lab report report, a lay out plan of where all concentrations of asbestos lies within the work site & "where it isn't". It also calls for a discription of asbestoes type, in what form it's in & how's it's to be removed & disposed of. It also requires a paper trail from removal to disposal site. It specifies if air quality monitoring is required as well as washing stations. It also outlines weither it can be removed by non liscenced workers. If particals are imbetted within materials that when removed do not allow disbersment into the air (some flooring & roofing materials) then anyone can remove them but it has to done by following set guide lines, wetting, double bagging, taping, etc. All permits to proceed, remove & disposed of need to be filed with you, the disposal company, the licsenced land fill, the owners & the building department & anyone else that has their nose in it. This is where the money goes when you get chharged $100 hr, trhe person removing it gets the same as any other labor, union they do a bit better but the bulk of the money goes to the above costs.

I can't say as I blame you, I'd probably be very carefull & wrap my own pipes too.   

Good luck
Barry