And if you go to Crete, visit the old leper-colony on Spina Longa - a very sobering experience. You might also read 'The Island' by Victoria ????? (sorry, forgot her name - a sign of approaching Old Age!), it's fiction but a very moving book, and builds a fine story around the real facts of Spina Longa.

Also, drive out along the coast to the N.E. tip of the island, and walk the Nekron Gorge down to Zakros - much shorter, quieter and less 'touristy' than the Samaria Gorge, and much more accessible, and a great walk for that. Leave your car at the top of the gorge, and have a beer in the tavernas at the bottom while you wait for the bus to take you back to the car.