Agree with you about Spina Longa, Backwoodsman - it's one of the saddest places I've ever been.

Also make a pilgrimage to the grave of Kazantzakis overlooking the bay at Heraklion. A profoundly spiritual man, he was refused burial in a cemetery because of writing The Last Temptation of Christ. His epitaph reads: "I hope for nothing. I fear nothing. I am free."