All over South Wales, and spreading northwards, the horse ritual called the Mari Lwyd is flourishing. Y Fari Lwyd (translated, the Grey Mare or the Holy Mary) is a midwinter custom in which a horses' skull, clad in a white sheet, is carried by by a man from door to door, the party demanding in verse (pwnco) to be let in. The people in the house, again in verse, take up the challenge to keep the horse out. Eventually, the people in the house relent and let the Mari Lwyd party in - the party sing a wassail (Y Washael) and costumed characters called the The Leader, Merryman, Pwnsh and Siwan (Punch and Judy) dance around the room.

We'll be going out with the Llantrisant Mari Lwyd this Christmas; the Mari Lwyd tradition is 28 years old. On New Year's Day, I shall drive to the village of Llangynwyd to see the oldest tradition going, the Llangynwyd Mari Lwyd, kept alive by Cwmni Caerdydd, the Cardiff dancers. An estimated guess shows 20 Mari Lwyds all going strong.

The Llantrisant Mari Lwyd song version goes:

Wel dyma ni diwad
Gyfeillion diniwed
I ofyn cawn gennad
I ofyn cawn gennad
I ofyn cawn gennad i ganu.

(Well, here we are, gentle friends, asking your permission to sing)

Mae Mari Lwyd yma
A sêr a ribanau
Yn werth i rhoi goleu
Yn werth i rhoi goleu
Yn werth i rhoi goleu nos heno.

(The Mari Lwyd is here, with stars and ribbons, it's worth it to give light tonight)

Mae Mari Lwyd lawen
Yn dod yn y dafarn
I ofyn am arian
I ofyn am arian
I ofyn am arian a chwrw.

(The happy Mari Lwyd comes to the pub, asking for money and beer)

Wel, tapwch y faril
Gyllongwch yn rhugl
A rhenwch e'n gynil
A rhenwch e'n gynil
A rhenwch e'n gynil Y Gwyliau.

(Well, tap the barrel, let it flow freely, it's Christmas!)