It's my understanding that string tension goes up exponentially. A guitar is built to handle a particular level of string tension, and tuning it a full step over what it is built to take can do all kinds of nasty things. Among other things, it can warp you neck or tear your bridge off. Also, you would increase the chances of string breakage, and when a string breaks, it can have the combined characteristics of a cheese cutter and a bullwhip. Not nice!

Don't do it!!   Find another way

There is not that much to learning to use a capo. It simply has the effect of shortening the neck of the guitar so that, with a capo on the second fret, if you play a D chord, it comes out an E chord. Simple as that.

Get a good capo (I use a Shubb) and spend some time getting used to playing with it. Also, learn to play in at least two keys (C and G would be good, because you also have easily available relative minors: Am and Em).

If you get a Shubb capo, be sure you get the right one for your guitar. Most steel string guitars have a slightly curved fingerboard, so you need the slightly curved capo. But some guitars, such as classics and earlier designed parlor guitars have flat fingerboards so you need the straight one. Shubb makes both kinds. If you get the wrong one, it won't fret the strings evenly and you might get string-buzz.

But don't tune your guitar higher than it was built for. Concert pitch (440-A) maximum.

Don Firth

P. S. By the way, if the guitar is built for nylon strings (more lightly strutted than a steel string guitar and with no truss rod in the neck) the effect of tuning the strings higher than normal can be just as damaging.