Dover has published a book on carriage construction. Of course it's a reprint of an old (out of ©) book. Unfortunately it's in one of the 140 book boxes we haven't unpacked since our move, and I don't recall specifically how much detail on wheel construction was included.

Most such wheels have a metal hub that's pushed into the wooden center hub, and it's critical that the finished outside arc of the finished wheel must be true and concentric with the axle hub; but most other dimensions are fairly non-critical.

It's usual to have a metal ring around each end of the wooden hub, inboard and outboard, for reinforcement; and proper use of well-fitted hub rings permits making the wooden hub as a single piece (preferred) or as multiple arc segments held together by the rings.

A metal "rim" around the outside of the wheel holds everything together. The rim must be fairly exact in circumference; but it's the assembled wooden parts that make it - and keep it - round.

All three of the metal rings (hub and periphery) need to be a fairly heavy force-fit to the wood, to keep things from flying apart when the wheel flexes under load. On heavier wagon wheels, it was quite common to use screws through the "tread ring" to help hold it on, but for light carriage wheels these might be omitted. Without the additional holding provided by screws (or pins) the fit of the outer rim does become much more critical, and a relatively heavier "shrink" is needed.

The spokes must be closely fitted to the chiselled "square" holes in the hub; but the fit of spokes to the outer rim is somewhat less critical, although they should be quite close and a "force fit" is wanted at both ends.

Especially if one has an existing wheel to use as a pattern, it should be quite possible to make all the wooden parts with common hand tools, although getting good fit at all the joints may be rather tedious - especially for someone lacking practice at wood working.

Making a "good looking" wheel takes a lot more practice than making one that will "do the job."

The inner hub, to mate with the axle, is the most critical "manufactured" part normally required. The hub rings and outer wheel rim must be of fairly precise circumference, but the wood can be shaped to accomodate small deviations, so "close enoough is good enough."

In my area, I'd go talk to the "townies" at the Amixh center down at Yoder; but I wouldn't really expect to find a "wheelwright." For a fair price, one of the farmers likely would make - or find - a suitable buggy wheel if asked by the right intermediary.

John