The Mudcat Café TM
Thread #128480   Message #3163158
Posted By: GUEST,BigDaddy
31-May-11 - 01:07 PM
Thread Name: BS: San Antonio Trip
Subject: RE: BS: San Antonio Trip
I just read Allan's description of his trip and enjoyed it greatly. I wish I'd kept a journal there last year. I had a whole week there, and though I did a lot of exploring, feel like I barely scratched the surface. I meant to return here a year ago to post an update on my San Antone trip, but better late than never, verdad? I arrived in San Antonio Saturday (April 24, 2010) afternoon. I was excited to see my old friend approaching me in the airport. He's stationed in Germany and we're lucky if we manage to get together even once a year. He was dressed in civilian clothes but wore his uniform during the days that he had to attend the conference. After greeting each other, we ran into an acquaintance of his from the USAF and the three of us shared a taxi ride to our hotel. Or almost to our hotel. Because the annual San Antonio Fiesta was still going on, our taxi driver had to drop us off a few (long) blocks from the hotel, as the streets were pretty much closed. Once we checked into the hotel, we headed for our room on the 10th floor and settled in. We went down to the "free 5:30 Kickback®," where we joined a number of other USAFE (United States Air Force Europe) personnel while we enjoyed our free drinks and food. About the hotel, the following is from the Drury Plaza's own description: "Formerly the Alamo Bank, this 24-story skyscraper was renovated to maintain its historical character while creating modern comfort. The lobby features 50-foot ceilings, travertine flooring and stained glass windows—forming the perfect ambience while you indulge in biscuits and gravy, scrambled eggs and sausage at our free Hot Breakfast, mingle at our free 5:30 Kickback® and snack on our free popcorn and soda as a supplemental dinner. The rest of the hotel doesn't cut any corners. … guestrooms feature Flat Panel LCD TV's, comfortable beds and free wireless Internet throughout the hotel." Not to leave out the "relaxing rooftop pool." All in all, a really nice hotel.
    Back in the room we relaxed a while before walking down to the Riverwalk. We stopped along the way at a rather elegant hotel bar for a drink or two, then proceeded onward. I have to say I was absolutely enchanted by the beauty of the Riverwalk by night. The tropical plants and trees were artfully illuminated. The combination of aromas from the many restaurants that lined the way made for quite an appetizer! We stopped at the first restaurant we came to which was Tex's Sports Bar and Grill. Like all other restaurants along the Riverwalk, one can sit indoors or out. We chose to sit outside because the evening weather was so nice and because there was a really loud band playing just inside. We ordered Mexican combination plates (very good) and it was there I had my first Shiner Bock. Why had no one told me before now of this wondrous brew? After dinner we walked some more of the Riverwalk and then went off in search of a dive bar where we could shoot some pool (one of our favorite pastimes, way back when). We discovered a bar called Eagle Gulch, where we shot pool with each other as well as the locals, singly and in pairs. This place had a noisy jukebox, badly abused restrooms, really cold beer (here we chose Dos Equis), really rough-looking customers (who treated us as equals), and one very used pool table. We found ourselves winding up there nearly every evening.
    I should mention that at the time of my trip, I had a seriously deteriorating ankle (long story), so when walking became too painful, I resorted to the wonderful public transportation of San Antonio.
    Day two was Sunday. Great free breakfast at the hotel. Hung out in and around the hotel for a while, then took a walk. This was thirsty business and we soon headed to Durty Nelly's, an Irish pub on the Riverwalk. We chose Blue Moon on tap while we listened to a spirited, if somewhat off-key singer accompany himself on an old piano. What he lacked in talent, he made up for with his good-natured humor and vitality. I have to say I hadn't performed in a while, and listening to this fellow inspired me to get my guitar out upon returning home and start playing again. Sometimes inspiration comes from the strangest places. So here we sat, two guys from Michigan (one of whom was stationed in Germany), at an ersatz Irish pub in Texas drinking a Belgian beer that is brewed in Golden, Colorado, listening to a Texan sing pseudo-Irish songs. Only in America, verdad?   
    While my buddy was occupied during the day, attending his conference, I was free to roam the streets of San Antonio. I made a number of trips to the Alamo, enjoying the beautiful, green peaceful oasis of its grounds in the heart of a bustling city. I freely admit that I was moved to visit this hallowed spot because of its iconic place in American (and Mexican) history. Having been one of those coonskin-cap-wearing kids in the 1950s, this place had always had a special place in my heart (and always will). Along the way in my rambles I discovered "Sip" on Houston Avenue. This is a corner coffee café with very friendly and helpful baristas. And great coffee. Just down the street is a wonderful store featuring a variety of art and handcrafted items from Mexico (Casa Salazar). A few blocks away is La Villita (here's a description from their website: "Located on the south bank of the San Antonio River, La Villita was San Antonio's first neighborhood. It was originally a settlement of primitive huts for the Spanish soldiers stationed at the Mission San Antonio Valero (the Alamo). After a flood in 1819, brick, stone and adobe houses replaced the earlier structures. In 1836, La Villita was the site of General Santa Ana's cannon line in the Battle of the Alamo and a map from early that year showed the village to be of considerable size". Today La Villita is a collection of a couple of dozen shops, a café, and restaurants. The shops range the gamut from typical touristy Texas souvenirs to the usual Mexican imports, to fine hand-crafted items created by local artisans. All in all, it's a charming place.
    One evening we had dinner at Casa Rio. It's a family-owned restaurant (since 1946) that sits right on the river. Great Mexican food, beers and of course, the ubiquitous Margaritas. Service was as good as the food and ambience. Con mariachis, of course. Another evening or two we dined at Mi Tierra Restaurant and Bakery, another old family-owned place (since 1941) situated near El Mercado. This place is a feast for all the senses, with a separate bar area, in-house bakery and remarkable restaurant. And it never closes! No, really. This place is open 24/7. The bakery, with its incredibly colored Mexican baked goods and candies has to be seen to be believed. The restaurant interior is as awe-inspiring as the Riverwalk by night. There are hundreds, if not thousands of tiny lights twinkling everywhere, reflected by dozens of hanging papel picado, apparently cut from tissue-thin foil. Here again, the food was great (and, of course, the drinks). Wonderful mariachis here as well as Casa Rio.
    One day for lunch my companion and I walked across the street from the hotel and ate at Sushi Zushi, a nicely-appointed sushi restaurant. It was my first foray into sushi territory. While I admired the tasteful presentation of our combination plates, I had pretty much decided (as I'd already suspected) by the meal's end that I'm just not a sushi kind of guy. To be fair, I believe this probably really is as good a place for this cuisine as my buddy said it was. Just not my thing.
    One day while walking to the Alamo, I stopped in at the Buckhorn Saloon and Museum on Houston Street. While I didn't do the tour, I sat at the oversized old wild west bar, had a Shiner Bock (or two) and enjoyed a side order of fried okra (yum!) while engaging in witty (or maybe witless) repartee with a couple of other customers who were in town to film a commercial.
    Except for some of the "touristy" places along the Riverwalk, we pretty much stuck with local, family-owned businesses and were glad we did. My friend told me of some people that he and his wife know, who traveled to Australia and came back telling how much fun they had shopping in malls, eating at the Outback Steakhouse, etc. Almost like they never left home.
    As my ankle gradually deteriorated, I appreciated more and more the great city trolley system that runs about town.
    We spent our final evening bar-hopping with a few of my friend's Air Force companions. We went back to Durty Nelly's, the Mad Dog British Pub, the Club Rive
(one of those techno places where you can't hear yourself think. Looks like something out of the old Miami Vice TV series). Ended up as usual at Eagle Gulch for more drinks and some pool.
    My buddy and I left Saturday morning, sharing a taxi to the airport with another USAF acquaintance. We separated at the airport as we had different departures. I had to fly back to Michigan, he was driving to Oklahoma to visit his daughter before flying back to Germany.
       Upon returning home, I realized that what I appreciated most about San Antonio was that, in spite of being a large city, it really felt more like a village, with quick and easy access to everything, and feeling secure walking its streets by day or night. And the weather. And the food (and beverages). As with most trips I've made, I came back with a mental list of all the things I want to do there on my next trip. Which I made this spring with my wife and son. Now if I can just get around to typing up my recollections of that trip...