Being (somewhat reluctantly) partially acclimated to the "modern world," I must note that those of us whose eyesight is less than it once was likely have discovered that even the tiniest fonts are readable if they're used on FLAT OBJECTS amenable to scanning, so that the scanned image can be easily displayed at "full screen" size. For CD inserts of interest, I usually scan them "on receipt" just on principle (because the booklets often get lost).

Unfortunately, the dispenser my insurance company demands I use prints the labels on the bottles at about 3.2 points, and scanning round objects (with an exterior rim adjacent to the label) is a real p.i.a., so I have a 10X "microscope" for them. (And I don't generally wear my trifocals at the keyboard, so I don't think my sight is particularly degenerate.)

For reference, at least recently major book publishers insisted that the "master file" (usually PDF) be "composited" at 1200 dpi for direct printing from the file. ANYTHING that you consider a professional or even "advanced amateur" publication should be printed at no less than about 600 dpi, and at that resolution all the details of serif or sans serif typefaces should print legibly at anything larger than about 5 point, and will be readable with "optical aids" or by scanning and enlargement.

A potential difficulty that has not been mentioned is that the font you see on your computer screen may not be what you see in the printed result. This can happen for a number of reasons. Older Windows versions kept separate font files for screen resolution and for printing, and it was sometimes easy to send the wrong one to the printer. This problem probably pretty much went away after Win98 SP2, and hopefully nobody here is still using anything older(?).

With other Windows versions, there is a "Clear Type" setting that allows the computer to apply "anti-aliasing" to smooth out the "jaggies" (lots of technical terms here) on the screen. Fonts used with the Clear Type option may have "different jaggies" when printed, looking better or worse than the on-screen display.

Some fonts, so far as I've heard on all computers, may "switch resolutions" when you change the point size, to accommodate the rather crude dpi capabilities of monitors, and this can (rarely?) result in the wrong information going to the printer.

Most of these problems shouldn't happen (but?) if you use good quality TrueType of Type1 fonts and appropriate quality printers etc.

The ONLY WAY to be sure of what the printed product will look like is to PRINT IT at the intended size, and look critically at the print. I would suggest using at least a 5x magnifier to scan over the individual characters to make sure you're not getting "broken edges" or other artifacts that should be corrected.

There is no perfect font for every use, so agonizing over finding "the one" just right for your job is mostly senseless. Pick one you like, set it up and print it. If it satisfies you, then "go to press."

IF YOU ARE HAVING SOMEONE ELSE PRINT STUFF FOR YOU, be absolutely sure that you do it all the way they want it. Some print shops are more flexible than others, but discuss whether it's going to cost extra to "do it different" if you really need to. And if they give you a deadline for getting stuff to them be sure you meet it.

If you're printing your own, be sure you have a printer that's adequate for the job. Most reasonably recent ones probably are okay for any likely "home brew" printing, but there are exceptions.

Remember too that "ink jet" inks are NOT WATERPROOF or even water resistant. Laser printed things are more resistant, but professional printers should be able to apply an "overglaze" to either kind to protect the articles from casual damage. I would think you'd want this on a CD booklet, but it's your choice.

John