Thanks for all the tips. We had a great time, helped by your suggestions and the GoLisbon website,

Some quick comments:

1. The Fado museum is definitely worth visiting. Nicely set up with a range of exhibits. Bit vague on offering advice on venues - perhaps understandably.

2. Many of the fado clubs are essentially restaurants with musical interludes. Some are out-and-out tourist traps, as far as we could see. Even when they're not, the food can be mediocre. On the other hand - if I were looking for good food in Lisbon (which I was, betimes!) I wouldn't particularly want to mix it with music! The solution is often to go to clubs very late - at which they stage they often make a simple cover charge and push up the price of drink. Not a problem as it's cheap enough anyway.

3. Watch out for the word "vadio" in notices, flyers etc. It means that the musicans and/or singers are "amateur" and the atmosphere less formal than elsewhere. For us, anyway, this was often preferable to more polished and formal setups.

On specifics:
- we enjoyed Clube de Fado, mentioned earlier. It helped that, round the corner, as a fall-back device, was what sounded like a good jazz club!
- A baiuca is a great example of the "vadio" approach.
- our least satisfying experience was an openair cafe in the Alfama area where the music was fine but the food was desperate!

The Alfama district is definitely the area to go, incidentally - partly because the streets are too narrow to get a tour bus through, I reckon.

Regards