Just to balance the record, THIS time we had a super day up in London. Went to the Tower, and it's just as excellent as I remember it from the sixties. Beefeaters' guided talks funny and helpful, well-designed displays, you can go out and come back in on the same ticket. Took a boat trip down the Thames, and this is by far the best way to see the sights. I think the lack of traffic (it was Saturday) made a huge difference. Even the commentary on the boat was hilarious. "And coming up on the right we have the Monument, Christopher Wren's last erection." "Now you can see the Tate Modern. No entrance fee, the rubbish in there isn't worth paying for." So I've changed my opinion, London is OKAY!