I would expect that any extra insulation would all be enclosed inside a housing so that you couldn't remove it during installation. You have to trust the manufacturer that the "innards" that do what they promise will be securely attached, if they don't include specific instructions for what "loose stuff" is essential for proper installation.
While the longer cleaning cycles give more time to make sure everything inside gets up to temperature, and stays hot enough for the reactions that get the crud broken down, they don't necessarily mean that the outside (or even the inside) surfaces get to a higher temperature. The longest time may, in fact, run a little cooler since the cleaning action doesn't have to be "hurried."
The longer cycle may also get things sufficiently "cleaner" that you don't have to run another cycle as frequently.
In stoves in general, all the "sensitive" controls generally are in the "console" where they're about as far from anything hot as possible. About the only thing actually exposed to "cooking temperatures" would be the temperature sensor in the oven. The "electronics" that read even that temperature usually are up in the console/control-panel where the knobs are.
If the knobs don't sizzle when you spit on them, it's unlikely that any excessiveley rapid destruction of the electronics is going to be a problem. Given that stoves are "utilitarian commondities," they generally don't install aerospace/rocket-ship quality components, so maintenance and repair rates aren't spectacular; but the kind of stove doesn't seem to have much to do with it, other to make the replacement parts a little more expensive if you get something really fancy.