The type of shirt you describe was actually a firemans shirt. I have one in my closet of uniforms and other accessories. Probably the best thing to do would be attend a reenactment close to you and go to sutlers row. There you can try before you buy to make sure the fit is correct. On mine I had to have wifey move the buttons for the plaquette so it would fit properly. The only way I have seen them is in cotton fabric. Good luck...