For heaven's sake don't miss O'Flaherty's. I think it's on Toulouse. Usually something live going on most evenings. Love the ballad room where they shoo you upstairs if you can't listen to the singers.

And if you're on vacation from a structured life, the beauty of the place is you can just roam the Quarter streets and see what sounds come wafting out the doors. You might pass that place with the great piano bar just by happenstance.