I found that life in the rural villages, although equally poverty-stricken, had a certain dignity and stability to it, and I saw many rather poor folk but they looked (to my eyes) reasonably happy. In the larger towns and cities however (eg Ziginchor, Dakar) I saw dreadful things, real starvation, with people walking past skeletal beggars at the side of the road, and one, a mother with two small whimpering babies, who seemed to be at death's door. My taximan ( I used him, an oldish chap, most of the time as he was a good 'bodyguard') always stopped me from giving, as he said there'd be a huge crowd around us in seconds and he couldn't guarantee to protect me. And one paltry contribution wouldn't solve much. Maybe they think even Muslim fundamentalism could offer a better standard of living, who knows? On a happier note, the music, drumming, dancing, craft and printed textiles I saw in W Africa were out of this world. It's their only outlet, and no-one should forbid it.