I only ever see it in the farm shop at Gloucester Services, Will. Sometimes they don't have it at all and other times it's blackening, so I only buy it if the timing's right. Whenever I buy it I have a cool box in my car to put it in, as I also buy pork at Gloucester Services, free-range Gloucester Old Spot dontcha know, so I go prepared. I wouldn't buy big hunks of it as we'd never get through it before it went over. It's quite pricey, by the way - occasional treat territory only!

I've discovered a superb camembert in Morrisons. It's made in Somerset by the Lubborn Creamery. A good, hearty rind and a rich, creamy middle that ripens beautifully. I can say without fear or favour that it's better than most French camemberts I've ever tried.