Well Mrs Steve and I were introduced to Cabrales by a lovely lady who ran a wine/tapas bar in Potes, in the Picos de Europa, in 1998. In those halcyon days you could wash down your tapas with a bottle of El Coto Rioja for three euros, or was it quids. She was so keen for us to try the queso that she wouldn't let us pay for it. It tasted magnificent, but I've never found the Cabrales on sale here to be anything like as alluring. Could be that it doesn't travel well.

To change tack, is there anything finer than a hunk of halloumi grilled on the barbie?