On the hard cheese front there is no doubt that I'm an aficionado, a student even, of the finest cheddars. But ce soir I have sampled a lump of Mrs Kirkham's traditional Lancashire. As a matter of fact I'm still nibbling the last scraps of it, sat outside in the balmy Cornish evening light (whilst Mrs Steve is indoors watching yet another angst-ridden drama...), washing it down with a well-filled glass of Negroamaro...

This cheese is a masterpiece. Yes it's a Lancashire. Yes it's crumbly. Yes it's tangy. But it's also rich, creamy, buttery and complex, perfectly textured. Am I in cheese heaven, I ask myself.

And tomorrow I'm going to try the much-vaunted Appleby's Cheshire. It doesn't look like that cheery, lightweight, crumbly Cheshire that makes such a good cheese and tomato butty. It looks like a serious cheese. I'll keep you posted...

Begod, cheese...